Dylan Thomas is alive and well in Swansea, Wales

March 29, 2011

Two weeks ago, I spent a day in Swansea, southern Wales, where I became thoroughly steeped in the legacy of the poet, playwright and writer, Dylan Thomas.

I feel fortunate to have met several exceptional individuals who are keeping of the legacy alive for future generations.

At 5 Cwmdonkin Drive, Dylan Thomas’ birthplace, we spoke with the lovely Anne Haden, who, with her husband Geoff, have lovingly restored the birthplace home of the author, while quite literally resurrecting the spirit of his family. Their venture is a unique way to educate visitors about domestic life in Wales during the early part of the 20th century. (http://www.5cwmdonkindrive.com/). Here a bit of Anne’s commentary about Dylan’s parents and his early years.

A wonderful treat for us was to have a chance to get to know acclaimed actor Peter Read., who originated the role of Dylan Thomas at the Edinburgh Festival and has appeared in many venues as the poet and playwright. A highlight was our visit to the Welsh town of Laugharne, where Dylan lived and worked and raised his young family. Peter joined us for lunch and a dramatic reading at Dylan’s gravesite. Hear Peter Read reciting “Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night.”

Well know artist Jeff Phillips was also a joy to meet. He was tremendously modest about his artistic talents and experience, but he has devoted the last several years to creating images of Dylan Thomas at various stages of his life and career. His artwork can be viewed at http://www.dylanthomasexperience.co.uk/

A huge thanks to Alan Maggs creator of The Dylan Thomas Experience, for bringing it all together for us.

And to all of our new friends in Swansea: see you on Dylan’s 100th birthday in 2014 at the White Horse Tavern in New York City’s West Village!

Chase Poffenberger
Academic Travel Abroad, Inc.

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In Good Company: Greece

August 20, 2010

I have just spent a wonderful week with my family in Greece. My 8-year old daughter had said she wanted to see the acropolis and so we fitted in a stop to Athens on our European tour and made her wish come true.

Thanks to ATA’s longstanding partners and dear friends, Eleni and Themis Zachariou, we enjoyed the perfect week – balanced with a fascinating visit to the acropolis in Athens followed by some relaxing days on the island of Aegina close by. I have long known that Eleni is able to impart her knowledge of ancient Greek history with pride and enthusiasm but this time it was wonderful to watch my kids learning. Eleni teaches with grace and her information is conveyed in such a way that it appeals to all ages.

Despite the heat, and it was seriously hot, the children were enthusiastic throughout the tour of the acropolis – that lasted several hours. As we hopped from one patch of shade to another, Eleni interwove the facts about the building of the Parthenon with stories of Greek gods. It was fascinating. When we arrived in the Acropolis Museum for a late lunch my daughter announced ‘ why are we watching this film, Eleni already told us all this!”

From Athens we took a ferry to Aegina, where Eleni and Themis have created a delightful family home in the hills above the port – surrounded by olive groves and pistachio trees (the staple crop of the island). The island of Aegina is hardly frequented by tourists, it is more a retreat for Athenians and is somewhat stuck in time. The port is filled with fishing boats and farmers selling their produce along the quay and lined with tavernas and small shops and stalls, many selling pistachios. Its simplicity is a great attraction.

Apart from unwinding here for a couple of days, it became apparent how the Zachariou family continually strive to create an authentic experience, catering to the individual guests every time and adapting to the season you are visiting. We were taken to the best beaches and given a tour of the Temple of Aphaia; and a pleasure for my foodie family, we were served some delicious Greek food. There is nothing that beats a perfectly ripened tomato seasoned with oregano and olive oil and served with feta cheese. We were treated to many fruits and vegetables from their garden, but we were also taken to some local tavernas that are frequented by Greek friends. It would be hard to imagine a more quintessential Greek experience than sitting on the beach savoring octopus, fried fish and ouzo as the sun went down. We enjoyed every mouthful.

The Zachariou’s skill is not only in treating you to the sights and flavours of Greece but in making you feel a part of it, however brief your stay. Even with my relatively young children we slipped into the Greek way of life (taking a long siesta during the heat of the day and eating out late). On our last night we were fighting with the locals for a table for dinner at a very popular courtyard taverna at 10:30 pm. But it was worth the wait. The garlic sauce served with the fried eggplants was divine.

Eleni also made my children feel comfortable with Greek – teaching them the Greek alphabet and basic phrases. So much so that my children refused to have the volume turned down on the Princess and the Frog DVD they were watching, even if it was in Greek. Listening to the lyrical sounds of the Greek language was all part of the experience.

In one short week my family had been treated to a very authentic introduction to Greece and they could see why I enjoy programming tours to Greece, not least because of the warmth of the Greek friends I work with. Efharisto Eleni and Themis!

Emma Impavido
Senior Program Manager

Academic Travel Abroad

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From Venice: Festa del Redentore

July 23, 2010

Emma Impavido, ATA’s Senior Program Manager for Italy programs, shares a bit of the magic of Venice in her latest post from Italy, where she is spending time this summer.

Fireworks in Venice

The highlight of our weekend in Venice was by far the Festa del Redentore and I might add it is what shaped our itinerary this summer. The church of the Redentore on the Giudecca was built by Palladio to give thanks that the Venetians had been saved from the Plague. Every year – on the third Saturday of July–a bridge of boats is traditionally built across the canal of the Guidecca. Today the bridge is a more solid construction that is set up temporarily for the feast and connects the Zattere to the Giudecca.

Venice lays on the most spectacular firework display in the Bacino di San Marco as part of the festivities. All terraces, restaurants and vantage points are booked up. We decided to do it the Venetian way and hired a water taxi with our friends. Having feasted

Venice Basilicaon a seafood extravaganza we boarded our boat. Our driver, a Redentore veteran, told us it was early at 9:30 pm to head to the bacino and so gave us a beautiful tour of Venice by night. There is something special about cruising down the Grand Canal in your own boat with hardly any other boats around. We were overwhelmed upon arrival in the bacino – it was filled with boats of all shapes and sizes. I had expected a lot but not the party atmosphere. We moved from the small family boat gatherings to the pirate ship. Then there were the disco ships to the fishing boats partying away and finally the seriously rich yachts moored up near the Giardini. I am not sure if it was the heat or tradition but there were also people taking a dip in the water.

Venice Firewoks

It was still too early to hang around so we paid a visit to a gelateria. At 11:20 pm we were racing down the Grand Canal with all the last arrivals to the party, including a few gondolas. A few moments later a couple of warning shots were fired and total silence and darkness descended on the city. Venice was ready for the show to begin. And what a show we were treated to. Forty minutes of pure magic.

There is something amazing about being in such an open space with fireworks raining down on you. The scene was Turneresque: the foreground was filled with the silhouettes of people and boats and then bursts of light and color beyond. There were loud cheers and applause as the effervescent sky faded to night, and the boats started to file home – priority given to the gondolas, followed by the smaller boats. The party boats and fishing vessels disappeared out into the lagoon, perhaps to party on, take a dip in the cleaner waters of the Lido or head off for tomorrow’s catch. What a night. Truly memorable!

Academic Travel Abroad

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Experiencing Arcetri Observatory

May 20, 2010
arcetri observatory

Arcetri observatory

Entering the round observatory room, we immediately gazed up at the enormous dome above. As the main door closed, one section of the dome slowly slid over another creating a large open window to the outside. We gazed up at the clear shot to the sky – a black blanket smattered with bright white stars. This was our introduction to the Arcetri Observatory in Florence Italy where AMNH Expeditions will be traveling this Fall - http://www.amnhexpeditions.org/expeditions/show/54 – an unparalleled opportunity to see the stars and planets like you have not seen them before.

Inside Arcetri's dome.

Inside Arcetri's dome.

The process begins by climbing a 10 foot ladder and placing one eye on the lense of the telescope which extends the length of the dome and trumpets out of the room and up towards into the sky. I remember the moment that I saw Jupiter so distinctly with 2 elegant rings circling it. It was magical. To think Galileo gazed up from this very same location with about 30-40% less visibility than this and still formulated such major brilliant theories sent shivers up our spines. Away from the hustle and bustle of the cities, for this one moment we had a vision of clarity and stillness and savored the wonderment of our universe.

Academic Travel Abroad

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Select All of Your Travel Partners Wisely

April 28, 2010

Academic Travel blogThe story of how travel was disrupted in Europe because of the erupting Icelandic volcano is almost a thing of the past now. Most travelers have made it home and transatlantic air travel is pretty much back to normal.

Over the weekend, the Wall Street Journal posed the question, “Is Travel Insurance Worth the Cost?” ( read more here )

This is a timely question, as American travelers are now assessing the unexpected additional costs they incurred. If they were traveling with a group, they are also assessing how their tour provider cared for them while they waited in limbo for the skies to clear and the runways to reopen.

For its part, Academic Travel Abroad kept its tour staff in place in two countries to ride out the delay with travelers, even though the tours had ended. ATA and its partners picked up the cost of some additional hotel nights, meals and additional activities. Travelers, understanding that they would also need to contribute to the costs, made the most of their additional days in London and Amsterdam.

Izabella Van Raalte, a long time ATA tour manager, summed up her feelings in a recent e-mail to Senior Program Manager Emma Impavido, who coordinated the company’s response and efforts to re-book travelers quickly with the help of Whitney Kulesz, Director of Travel Services:

“Thank you very much for being such a wonderful support on my recent tour. At all times I felt that I could bank on you 100 % and that you would come through which indeed you did. I looked forward to your daily “check in” phone call. ATA’s response to my request for help in getting hotel rooms at the eleventh hour was amazing. As I already told you it gave me great pleasure to be able to announce that ATA had managed to procure hotel rooms so quickly.

Emma, could you please also thank the whole team involved in back stopping for the great job they did. It takes a team to make a tour a success and I certainly felt as part of one and a great one at that.”

Academic Travel Abroad and its partner organizations actively promote the benefits of travel insurance to customers to protect their investment when the unexpected happens. Those travelers who purchased trip cancellation and delay coverage for their tours will be able to make substantial claims for reimbursement.

While none of us ever imagines ourselves the victim of a travel delay or mishap, the volcanic ash situation has reminded travelers how important it is to pick all of their travel partners wisely—from the tour company that makes the safety and well being of it customers its top priority, to the insurance company that stands by its coverage, and to the travel agent who swiftly and efficiently re-books passengers while airline websites and help lines crash through overuse.

Academic Travel Abroad

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Beware of the Ides of March!

March 16, 2010

March 15th of this month was a bloody day for Julius Caesar; he was assassinated on this day in 44 B.C. This event has evolved to become known as the Ides of March. During this time the ides was simply one common way of marking monthly lunar events, particularly the appearance of a full moon. But in this case, the Ides of March took on an entirely new meaning. This was the day that changed everything in Rome: society, government, and the course of history. On this day, the Roman Republic died. And the formation of the long-ruling reign of emperors in the powerful, altering, and exciting period of history known as the Roman Empire was born.

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Our Ride Through Countryside of Siena

March 1, 2010

The Siena countryside on bicycle

Today’s objective: ascertain whether a cycle ride through the Chianti would be fun, what would be the reality? Would a week of shoveling snow in DC followed by a week of skiing in Utah prepare me for this exercise?

I met Marco, our bike leader, a friendly Sienese man and my CET colleague, Anna at Porta Collia at 8:30 am. Local shop keepers were just opening up and going about their business, old ladies carrying fresh bread home from the bakery. The sun was shining, the sky was clear blue, the mist was rising slowly in the valleys and the air was fresh. We were fitted out with our bikes and hopped into Marco’s car for the short but delightful drive to Queriagrossa. The bikes arrived in a separate van and a few minutes later we hit the road.Near the end of our ride

Near the end of our ride

There was a total tranquility about the countryside. Very few cars and people, the birds were singing and before us the rolling hills of Tuscany, the contours of which are defined by the lines of cypress trees swaying in the breeze, and the rows of vineyards, dotted with farms and tiny hamlets. Several of which we rode through and paused at the fountain to refuel. Picture perfect.

The first part of the ride took us on a steady climb uphill. A farmer tending to his field looked me with his weather beaten face and with a toothless grin said ‘è dura!’ Indeed it was hard. When I thought we’d never reach the top I shouted from the back ‘I have to take a picture, it’s so beautiful!’ Marco knew my real reason for a stop but I did try to catch the essence of the beautiful landscape around.

We made it to the top and were rewarded with a tour through Castellina in Chianti. The Tuscan stone against the blue sky was gorgeous. It was market day and young families were out for a walk, at the park or kicking a football around the square.

From Castellina it was an exhilirating free wheel downhill. We could catch our breath, feel the wind in our hair and truly enjoy the scenery.

Italian country tastes along the way

Next stop: a winery. A wood fire was burning inside the tasting room. A most enjoyable stop this would be. Guests would sample here but we were moving on today. The rest of the route took us through country lanes past lovely villas, over tiny streams and along the endless vineyards. When we arrived back at Querciagrossa it felt like my Arc de Triomphe. Marco had said it would take about 3 hours, we did it in 2 hours 35 despite all my ‘photo stops’. Brave ragazze!

28 hilly kilometers later I can honestly say it was a wonderful way to see the countryside. The Italians laugh when the English say ‘molto pittoresco‘ but it really was.

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Capturing the Authentic Experience in Siena

March 1, 2010

Bakers making fritelle

What does it mean to have a truly authentic travel experience?  How does one assimilate into a culture if even for a short time?   My colleague, Emma (Impavido) and I are in Siena Italy this week to explore these questions and will write daily blogs on our findings here.

Siena is the perfect Tuscan town.  Set among the rolling hills of Tuscany, it is a town seeping with civic pride.  The town boasts 17 contrades, or neighborhoods, each embodying its own character and each vying for the prized honor of representing their neighborhood at the famous Palio.  This horse race occurs twice a year and turns the town upside down in sheer passion and competition.  Siena traces back its roots to medieval times; you can feel that its rivalries with other neighboring towns shaped its contemporary civic pride today.  Its main square, Piazza del Campo is the joy of the city where you will find wonderful cafes overlooking the Palazzo Pubblico and children playing soccer while Sienese families warmly greet each other.

Today inside Piazza del Campo Emma and I enjoyed a treat offered only during the Lenten season.

Fritelle stavelle, fried rice balls topped with powdered sugar, these treats are celebrated only for a few weeks of the year and in recognition of the life of Saint Guiseppe.  There were 10 workers behind this stall selling fritelle and while they were so busy keeping up with the demand of visitors wanting them by the dozens, each worker seemed to know all the locals and families who stopped by the counter.  For the Sienese, these are a tradition – something that cant imagine not having during this very religious period before Easter.  Taking part in this passage is an authentic, and delicious, experience unto itself.

Aside from holiday traditions and cuisine, authentic travel means doing things you might not necessarily get to experience as a tourist.  Tomorrow we will leisurely bike the hills of Tuscany with our local CET study abroad Resident Director and stop along the way to visit a vineyard.  While the orange Tuscan sun gently sets in the evening, we may stop off to listen to the hyms of Gregorian chants in a local abbey.

We will keep you posted as to what other gems we discover this week.  Buona giornata!

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Message from a Siena Balcony

February 26, 2010

We just received this email from Emma, one of our senior program managers, who has traveled to Italy for an R&D trip, and thought it was worth sharing…

Her view from the balcony

The windows are open and across the roof tops I can hear someone practicing on the violin. They are playing O Sole Mio. No joke. It feels like a home away from home. I recently bought the music and having been trying to make my tired fingers move across the piano keyboard at home. At the same time it is the quintessential Italian song for many and when played well a beautiful piece of music. And below I can hear the chatter of the Sienese as they take to the evening passeggiata before heading home to their families and dinner. And just beginning now are the church bells. This is the Siena that I love. And in case you are wondering here is the view from my room.

It doesn’t get much better than this,… magico!

Needless to say, we’re all quite jealous of her right now!

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The Hidden Story Within the Mediterranean Canvas

February 4, 2010

Remember when you first saw a famous work of art hanging graciously on the white-washed walls of an ill-remembered museum years ago and didn’t understand what all the hoopla was about?  Have you ever seen a piece in such a manner, then learned more about the artist, the painting itself, and maybe even the romantic story behind it?  If so, its truly amazing how a work of art can develop a whole new meaning once it’s story is told.  The scale of interest suddenly jumps when more is understood of it.

Well just tonight, Oliver Steeds, of Discovery Channel’s new show, “Solving History” demonstrated some of the story behind the amazing fabled islands of the Mediterranean. The premise of the show is all about his quest to piece geological and historical events of the past that tell a deeper, more meaningful story into the stories of cultural past civilizations, historical events and elusive legends.

In this episode, he took us on a whirl-wind tour through many of the islands of the Mediterranean in search of the truth behind the lost city of Atlantis.  Traveling from the steaming crest of Sicily’s Mt. Etna to the shores of Malta, Oliver spoke with geological experts and historians as to the validity of a city such as Atlantis.  The show came to a close with Oliver standing on the volcanic dome at the center of the caldera at Santorini in Greece. Historical and geological evidence had helped him build an entertaining hypothesis that this ancient volcano could have been the downfall of the great Minoan civilization and possibly ground zero for the destruction of Atlantis.

About 15 months ago, I had also been standing on the cliffs of Santorini staring off in sheer amazement of it’s utter beauty and scale.  I have yet to explore the other islands of Malta, Sicily, and Crete but hope to one day.  For now I will have to submerse myself in shows like this one to satisfy my appetite for discovering the hidden stories behind the likes of the “canvas” that is the amazing Mediterranean islands.

Should you feel the same desire to travel to the Mediterranean islands and discover their hidden past, AMNH Expeditions, the American Museum of Natural History’s travel division on New York is offering a special trip that just might satisfy such an appetite.  Learn more about this trip by clicking on the provided link (in red) below, then watch a short video of Oliver Steed’s new show, “Solving History” on the Discovery Channel.

http://www.amnhexpeditions.org/expeditions/show/66


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